Page 107 - traveling70eng
P. 107
roots as deep as seven metres into clay, sandstone, and
limestone soils. These roots not only seek water—they
extract minerality and a sense of place that translates
into wines with ferrous notes and a vertical profile, far re-
moved from the fruity roundness usually associated with
Tempranillo from other regions.
Tradition and technology
A visit to Bucrana begins in its production hall, where
pneumatic presses and stainless-steel tanks equipped
with automated climate control coexist. But the soul of its
wines beats underground: eight metres below, a wine ce-
llar carved into the rock houses 500 French and American
oak barrels. Here, a constant temperature (14–16°C) and
natural humidity allow for slow ageing, without artificial
cooling systems. This environment, reminiscent of medie-
val monastic cellars, is key to taming the power of Tinta
de Toro, integrating its tannins without dulling its vibrant
minerality.
Two wines embody this philosophy
Bucrana Crianza (aged 12 months in barrel) displays aro-
mas of black cherry, liquorice, and pink pepper, with a
spicy finish that pairs perfectly with lamb stews. In con-
trast, Tau—sourced from vines over 90 years old—is a
cult wine. After 18 months in oak, it reveals layers of to-
bacco, leather, and dried plum, with a texture as dense as
it is silky. It’s no coincidence that Tau 2018 received 92
Parker points: in this wine, the essence of a grape that,
despite its kinship with Tempranillo, speaks the unique
dialect of Toro.
Old barrels in the barrel room of the winery
WINERIES WITH SOUL
Rooted wine tourism
Bucrana has turned terroir education into a sensory expe-
rience. Guided tours include a workshop where wines still
in the making are tasted, each from a different soil type:
clay brings volume, sandstone elegance, and limestone a
crisp acidity. For detail enthusiasts, the self-guided geolo-
gical trail—with QR codes explaining everything from soil
formation to the aromatic herbs growing among the vi-
nes—reveals how every centimetre of earth impacts what
ends up in the glass.
In December, the winery offers a bush vine pruning wor-
kshop, an ancestral technique recognised as Agricultural
Heritage by the FAO. “It’s a way of understanding the vine
as a living being that adapts, not as a machine to produce
grapes,” explains winemaker Javier Pérez.
A cuisine in tune with the land
The gastronomy of Toro, deeply rooted in the agricultural
and winemaking traditions of the region, offers a sincere,
robust, and land-based cuisine. Among its most emble-
matic dishes is bacalao a la tranca—salt cod prepared
with garlic, paprika, and olive oil—a dish that perfectly
captures the intensity of Castilian flavours.
Another local classic is dos y pingada, a simple yet de-
licious combination of fried eggs and crispy pork belly,
traditionally eaten for breakfast on Easter Sunday. The
region also boasts superb roasts like lechazo (suckling
lamb) and tostón (roast suckling pig), both as succulent
as they are celebrated. Traditional stews such as chic-
kpeas with tripe or garlic soup—humble dishes—bring
- 107