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THE VINEYARDS OF PARIS
Certainly, its 0.15 hectares with northern exposure and
the jumble of planted grape varieties (with Pinot Noir and
Gamay being the most prominent) mean it stands more
as a memory of a glorious past than as a major producing
Clos. For this reason, its barely 2,000 bottles produced
each year are auctioned for charitable causes.
But what we love most about this vineyard is its historical
significance in the area, back when Montmartre was not
yet part of Paris (that wouldn’t happen until 1860) and its
vineyards did not have the concession rights to sell in the
capital. Having lost this natural market, taverns began to
spring up all over Montmartre to allow for on-site con-
sumption of the wine that couldn’t be sold elsewhere. This
marked the origin of the famous cabarets and the unmis-
takable bohemian atmosphere of Paris’s 18th arrondis-
sement. Without doubt, it’s worth preserving a couple of
thousand vines in gratitude for services rendered.
glorious past. With just 350 vines planted in 1996 (nearly
half of which were replanted a few years ago), its 660 m²
produce around 250 litres of wine, mainly from Sauvignon
and Chardonnay varieties. This small vineyard pays tribu-
te to what was once one of the most prosperous wine and
spirits markets in the world.
During the 17th century, long before the commune of
Bercy was annexed by Paris in 1859, it was a strategic
hub for the wine trade, as its proximity to the River Seine
made barrel transport easier, and its location outside the
city limits allowed it to avoid the droit d’entrée tax. This led
to its growth as a major commercial centre for wine, with
deals struck on the riverbank and a colourful array of wine
cellars and taverns springing up in the area.
Clos de Bercy (Parc de Bercy, 12ème arrondissement)
Other districts took advantage of their strategic position
on the city wall’s edge and by the banks of the Seine to
develop a prolific commercial relationship. Such is the
case of Bercy, whose cellars and warehouses, owned
by merchants and wine brokers, gave rise to one of the
most important wine markets in the world. The cobbles-
tones and railings of Cour Saint-Émilion, along with the
remnants of old railway tracks, still bear witness to that
El Viñedo del Hospital Bretonneau
(18ème arrondissement)
This small vineyard is tended by residents of the geria-
tric hospital and is usually opened to the public during
the Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre. The purpose of
this vineyard differs greatly from that of its counterparts:
far from serving a touristic or commemorative function, its
nature is purely therapeutic. Many of the elderly residents
at the hospital have a strong emotional bond with the land
and have, at some point in their lives, cared for vineyards
to varying degrees.
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