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THE VINEYARDS OF PARIS
THE VINEYARDS OF PARIS
SEED OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION
Words: Alejandro y Luis Paadín - Photos: Archivo y sortirasparis
La The City of Light par excellence is widely known
for its bohemian and unyielding spirit; a capital
of fashion and elegance for centuries, its streets
breathe history and whisper legends alike. With
more than 2 million inhabitants and over 100 km², it is
impossible not to discover a new Paris with each visit.
Today, we will explore one of its most overlooked facets,
one that pays homage to a once-thriving industry: viticul-
tural Paris.
To do so, we must travel back to 18th-century Paris, a
time when the growth of a glorious city clashed with the
economic interests of the Ferme générale, the General
Tax Collection Company. During the Middle Ages, more
than half of what is now the city was a major wine-pro-
ducing hub, with vineyards covering much of the hills of
Montmartre, Belleville and other areas now urbanised.
Monks and religious communities cultivated vines both for
their own use and to trade in the bustling capital; althou-
gh the quality of Parisian wine was never exceptional, its
proximity to the market ensured its popularity.
Between 1784 and 1791, perimeter walls were built fo-
llowing a layout similar to that of today’s boulevards
Saint-Germain and Montmartre, under the order of the afo-
rementioned Ferme générale. At the height of monarchical
splendour, their purpose was not defensive, but rather ser-
ved the greedy collection of taxes (octroi) on goods ente-
ring the city. Encircling a much smaller Paris than today,
these walls became highly unpopular, symbolising fiscal
control and contributing to the discontent that preceded the
French Revolution.The droit d'entrée was the final customs
duty that foreign goods had to pay to enter the lucrative
Parisian market in the 18th century. It was not a new tax—
the system had been in place for nearly four centuries and
represented the city's main source of income.
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