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TRANSCANTÁBRICO GRAN LUJO
Gorge of the Deva River in the Hermida Spa.
The capricho of Gaudí in Comillas
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CANTABRIA
Cabezón de la Sal, the Deva river
gorge, and Comillas
After spending another night in Llanes, we
set off early—prompted by the sound of
the bell—towards the first Cantabrian stop:
Cabezón de la Sal. From there, we travel
by road to experience nature in its rawest
form with all five senses:
The gorge of Río Deva (also known as
de la Hermida), carved out by the river
of the same name, is a spectacular gorge
that leads visitors to the Monastery of San-
to Toribio de Liébana. Though we didn’t
reach that final destination, we did enjoy
much of the day relaxing in the Thermal
spa circuit of the Balneario de la Her-
mida—a day of wellness and lifestyle that
proved as gratifying as the superb cocido
lebaniego we savoured at the spa’s restau-
rant.
The gorge of Río Deva, straddling Astu-
rias and Cantabria, is a 21-kilometre gor-
ge flanked by the Picos de Europa. The
N-621 road winds through it—undergoing
improvements since 2022. This corridor,
perfect for hiking and rafting, links villa-
ges like Potes and Unquera, and includes
scenic viewpoints like Santa Catalina,
where lucky visitors may spot bearded
vultures in flight.
The day concludes with a visit to Comi-
llas, one of the most elegant towns in
Cantabria, where El Capricho of Gaudí
(1883) unfurls its Modernist charm: green
ceramic tiles, a cylindrical tower, and na-
ture-inspired motifs. Commissioned by in-
diano Máximo Díaz de Quijano, this small
palace blends Oriental influences with the
Catalan master’s beloved symbols of natu-
re and music—making it a unique Moder-
nist gem in the north of Spain. The legacy
of the indianos is so deeply woven into the
Cantabrian coast that it reads like a living
manual of cultural and artistic heritage.
We round off the day exploring some of
the town’s most iconic landmarks—the
Palacio de Sobrellano, its unusual ceme-
tery, and the imposing Pontifical University.
Then, it’s back to Cabezón de la Sal, din-
ner aboard the train, and a delightful magic
show to end the evening. Incredible!